sat-sun-mon

so the last few days have been interesting. first, sunday night. swell fills in to max size around 2, which is when i got in the water at judith. the wind was so-so, coming from the WSW-W. not really the best. good enough for the north sides of judith, so i paddeled out in the fog with a few other guys.
at first the fog was so intense i couldnt really see shore. i could see only the few people close enough in the water, and whatever waves were nearby. judith's fog horn kept me oriented, and the occasional dots of a parked cars headlights. that was it tho. at first, the waves were lame. head high on the sets, but the period was super short. seven seconds, i believe, which is nothing more than semi-organized wind chop. i got only a few decent waves. i saw this fun peak to my right, which bowled up over a few shallow rocks, but couldnt seem to find it. i nabbed a few decent ones tho, so it wasnt a total bust, and threw a forward or two. after about a half hour the period started to go up, to 8 or 9 seconds. this threw an extra two or three feet on the wave, and gave it some length and organization. got a nice long right whcih i was planning on taking in, but ended up paddeling back out to a peak further down the point. it was a bust tho, so after paddeling about 300 meters to the main peak, i took one in. the view from the top showed what the extra two seconds did: long lines were filling in, at solid overhead. the fog had cleared.
the next morning i drove around a bit. nothing looked too appealing. wind was out of the WNW, and light. i saw some spray off the spot in the distance, so i drove over and checked it out. it was ok. weather was perfect, which made for good early morning backlit waves. i didnt surf it. the sets were too inconsistant. but this one bomb set came through. i saw it coming, this stacked set, and was so pumped. first was solid, second wave was bigger, and the third was one of the biggest ive seen at the spot. probably 8 foot, maybe 10. usually the place it consistant around 6, so i was pupmed to see something bigger. it was so good tho. the lip crumbled, then backed off, and then threw so hard and far and heavy. the left looked PERFECT.
ended up surfing dropping east beach. chest high on the sets. relaxing session. one surfer out, one skimboarder on the beach, and perfect weather. i made one nice right, and got another long right tube to a closeout. fun times.
tuesday was good late, after the swell filled in. short period, but TB was fun anyway. real peaky. i got some decent waves at first, but better ones when the tide dropped. two weak barrels, but according to andrew they looked solid. wave of the day: walled up bowling right. dropped in, set a line, and hit the lip. got launched pretty high given the conditions, and threw a decent roll. moved up the beach to the sea wall and found a super heavy peak breaking in a rip current. fun times there. the rip made the paddle out cake. eventually got too dark so i took a crappy one into shore.